In exceptionally simple terms, there are 3 general tactics employed. You need to be agile enough to switch tactics almost instantly as the course of the match unfolds.
The Blockade
This comprises of creating a 6-thick wall of checkers, or at least as thick as you can manage, to lock in the competitor’s checkers that are on your 1-point. This is considered to be the most suitable course of action at the start of the game. You can assemble the wall anywhere inbetween your 11-point and your two-point and then shift it into your home board as the match progresses.
The Blitz
This is composed of locking your home board as quickly as as you can while keeping your opponent on the bar. e.g., if your opposer rolls an early two and moves one checker from your 1-point to your 3-point and you then roll a five-five, you are able to play six/one six/one eight/three 8/3. Your opposer is then in big-time dire straits taking into account that they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have closed half your inner board!
The Backgame
This plan is where you have 2 or higher anchors in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a point consisting of at a minimum 2 of your pieces.) It needs to be employed when you are decidedly behind as this strategy much improves your opportunities. The strongest places for anchor spots are near your competitor’s lower points and also on abutting points or with a single point separating them. Timing is important for an effective backgame: after all, there is no point having 2 nice anchor spots and a complete wall in your own home board if you are then forced to break apart this right away, while your opponent is shifting their checkers home, taking into account that you don’t have any other spare pieces to shift! In this case, it’s better to have checkers on the bar so that you can maintain your position until your challenger gives you a chance to hit, so it may be an excellent idea to attempt and get your challenger to get them in this situation!
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